A Narrow Boaters Ambition is Achieved

Another blog you say and so soon? But I must catch up, so please bear with me and read on.

After some ten miles with no locks and only those wretched swing bridges to contend with (just noticed by the way that the Nicholson Guide refers to them as "prone to intermittent stiffness" - yeah, right) we passed Silsden with its old corn mill dated 1677 and headed towards Keighley. You approach down Airedale, its steep hills wooded with green trees with the distant rows of chimneys, factories and terraced houses across the valley signalling imminent arrival in the town.

I had been looking forward to Keighley as it was from here that we would enjoy an excursion on the Keighley and Worth Valley steam railway. Closed in 1961 the line was saved by enthusiasts who managed to reopen it in 1968 with a regular service of steam trains.  It's terminus is shared with the regular Keighley station but you pass through a time warp as you descend the ramp to its platforms and a perfectly preserved 1950's station complete with original posters, clocks and livery. The volunteers are all dressed in period uniform and costume so you really feel you're entering the set of Brief Encounter.

Being the first train of the day the steam engines weren't yet awake so we took a 1960s generation diesel pulled train up the five miles of valley to Oxenhope. After a quick look round we jumped on a vintage bus to go over the top of the moors to Haworth, home of the Bronte sisters. This gave us a perfect view of the bleakness that can be the moors and so well captured in Wuthering Heights.

Very touristy but still a lovely village, we saw the Bronte family home (the former vicarage) which for some reason was heaving with French students and descended the steep cobbled main street back to the station. Here we peaked in one of the train sheds and met a volunteer cleaner who offered to show us the Pullman carriages they had. What a treat. Immaculate in their magnificence they were 1930s vintage and oozed the luxury that must have been Pullman travel. Only thing missing was Hercule Poirot. 

Our return journey was with a proper steam engine and even Ros got a bit excited as she realised this was the line used in the Railway Children and she stuck her head out of the window (remember when you could do that on trains?) only to get bits of soot in her eyes. Ah, memories. 

To complete our cultural education we paid a visit to the canal-side NT property of East Riddleston Hall, a Tudor House with romantic ruins of  former glory originally developed by the wonderfully named Murgatroyd family - heavens.

Back on the boat I could feel the excitement mounting in the captain. The day before she had booked our passage down the biggest and only 5 lock staircase in the entire waterway system. The Bingley Five-Rise staircase lock is one of those must see/must do experiences for all narrow boat groupies and here were we about to do it.  

I may have educated you before about staircase locks but here's a quick refresher. The locks are all joined together rather than being separated by pounds of neutral water. The top gates of the lowest lock are the bottom gates of the lock above and so on. This means its not possible to empty a lock unless the one below is itself empty. You climb, or in our case descend, an alarming amount in an incredibly short distance.

Being fairly complicated, the locks are manned by a professional who manages the descent. This day he was supported by two volunteers who were real keenies and most put out by me wanting to play my part in opening paddles and gates rather than leave it all to them. They didn't get off to such a good start however for as we were about to leave the first lock the keeper noticed one of them had left a paddle open necessitating an emergency closure and reopening of the top lock to let in more water. I resisted any comment. 

With her badge and certificate in place the captain took us on to a more minor but equally enjoyable three rise staircase where again a full time keeper ensured no mistakes.  

The view from the top of the Bingley Five-Rise and been very impressive looking down through the wooded swath of the canal to Bingley where the giant chimney and impressive brick factory of Damart dominated the landscape. Never one to miss checking out a bargain Ros wanted to visit the factory shop and see if any thermal underwear was on offer. Be reassured dear reader this wasn't a precaution for Fandango nights, merely thinking ahead to a skiing trip.  No such luck though, just endless racks of seriously unattractive ladies wear.

We had let the lock keeper know we would be continuing our journey to Leeds the following day so he had alerted the keeper at the next three-rise (they really go in for these groupie delights on this canal you know). This meant he had held back another boat to join us on our descent through the next three and two-rise staircases and naturally you get chatting. Well, who would believe it but the occupants were Americans from San Francisco which dear reader is where we go a week after completing this adventure to watch Giles in the America's Cup. They were full of advice and guidance and we've ended up with an invitation to visit. They are narrow boat enthusiasts too, this being their fourth holiday. Guess what we'll be talking about when we meet up?

We had been warned about the risks of the final stretch into Leeds but it passed without incident and we arrived at the smart and beautifully restored Granary Wharf and moored outside the Hilton hotel. Yes, a convenient spot for the captain to enjoy a few hours in their gym and spa and ease the stress and strain of nautical responsibility. 

Having not been in Leeds since the 1980s I was pleased to see how much regeneration had gone on and how important the river and canal had become with tastefully restored warehouses and factories and some very interesting new build. With nothing on at the theatre and no concerts to see we opted for a tapas meal surrounded by affluent looking bright young things and served by the most charming moonlighting university lecturer. 

The two sides of the recession?