A Welcome Detour

The Caldon Canal was opened in 1779 as a single branch to the limestone quarries at Froghall and climbs to a dizzy 485 feet above sea level. Unnavigable by the 1960s it was thanks to the efforts of the canal society and eventually the local authorities that its potential as a recreational asset was recognised and it was reopened in 1974. Still a quiet backwater we only passed two boats as we headed up this beautiful part of the Staffordshire countryside and into the steep valley and deeply wooded slopes of the Churnet Valley.

Leaving the suburbs of Stoke we had our first experience of an electric lifting bridge with all the bells and whistles of traffic lights, alarm sirens and manual barriers. It took us a little while to work out exactly how all this worked and in what order making us a bit unpopular with the waiting cars and pedestrians, but hey, we weren't in a rush, so chill.   Excitement at Hazlehurst too where the canal branched with one line going to Froghall the other to Barnfield the one passing over the other in a soaring aqueduct as they snaked their separate ways. 

Having said we only met two boats, as luck would it have one of them was confronted as we turned to go under this  impressive aqueduct.  Now we had been diligent narrowboaters and had sounded our pretty impressive horn before proceeding and having heard nothing in reply assumed we were clear to continue. Not so, the boat-with-no-horn coming the other way was travelling much too fast and forced us into a full throttle reverse to avoid an unnecessary collision. Amateurs......

The landscape was truly beautiful and we were so pleased we had taken the advice not to miss this 17 mile stretch of waterway seeming to be almost untouched and unspoilt by man's incursions. Yet it had been in the past , when boats and trains laden with limestone competed for trade. When we got to Cheddleton we began to run alongside the Churnet Valley Steam Railway and anticipation grew that we might see one of their steam engines at work. 

Having heard that the final two and a half miles into Froghall were very narrow and difficult to pass another boat we decided to stop for the night at Consall Forge where there was room to turn around just before the weir - sounds more exciting than it was as it was a very gentle weir.... A very remote spot, it still had a canal side pub called the Black Lion which succeeded it attracting customers from who knows where to make the journey and enjoy its beautiful setting nestling against the steep river valley. It overlooked the perfectly preserved Consall railway station where the waiting room stands alone cantilevered over the canal.

To complete our exploration of this particular canal we unloaded the bikes and cycled the last few miles into Froghall giving Phoebe some high speed exercise. Don't worry dog lovers, we were very conscious of not going too fast! Not much there apart from the terminus of the railway and a low, narrow tunnel I'm very pleased we managed to avoid.

Heading back the way we had come (something the spreadsheet had been determined to avoid)  I was delighted to hear the unmistakable whistle of an approaching steam train and we were in a perfect spot to witness the splendour of a passing engine billowing its white smoke as it pulled four 1950s carriages packed with excited young faces. Giving the driver a blast on our horn we were acknowledged in return with a full throated whistle from the engine. Even Ros was bit impressed although she tried to hide it.

Our final stop on the Caldon was the Cheddleston Flint Mill which luckily was open to visitors as the volunteers had decided to do an extra day. What lovely people and so dedicated to the struggle to keep the mill preserved. A fully restored mill with two working water wheels that used to drive the flint grinding pans,  the adjoining cottage was still home to the 93 year old daughter of the last mill master. Living history. 

And so back to the Trent and Mersey Canal at Stoke and our original itinerary. An overnight stop at the Etruria basin, a visit to the nearby Tesco and we were ready for the Harecastle Tunnel, so scary they send you through in convoy.

And guess who'd drawn the short straw to drive this time?