Northward bound

Panic. 

Somehow I have managed to delete all my notes and blogs to date from my iPad. No idea how I did this but no amount of searching retrieved the data and despite looking on line for some trick the techie nerds had discovered to right this failure of Apple design (wake up Apple) because I hadn't "linked to the cloud" there was no chance of a reprieve. No idea about this cloud business but having got the vaguest of ideas what it is it's not something easily achieved when you have such intermittent wifi connectivity. After a lull in enthusiasm for writing I've decided to battle on and use my memory for the next instalments - that's a challenge now I'm so relaxed with this pace of life....

An early start was required to get into line for the Harecastle Tunnel, another of those "must do's" for the narrow boat enthusiast. 

Now a bit of history for you all as this really is quite a triumph of man's ambition to overcome an obstacle. The first tunnel was opened in 1777 and represented engineering on a scale quite unknown to the world at that time and it duly impressed. Being narrow and low the boats had to be "legged" through (ie lying on the boat's roof and walking along the tunnel roof) slowing the journey significantly and making Harecastle a major bottle-neck for canal boats. Thus in 1822 Thomas Telford was called in to construct a second tunnel alongside the first one. Completed I827 it had a towpath (now removed) and both tunnels operated until the early 20th century when the original had sunk so much due to mining subsidence that it had to be abandoned.  

Today the tunnel is controlled by keepers who manage the convoys and inspect boats to ensure all will be safe. We had to take down our chimneys and close off the stove outlet  - and of course MN had supplied exactly the required part! After a short wait we were given the all clear and as second boat of our convoy of five we began our journey into the dark deep depths for the 2926 yards we had to endure. They use old money in the Nicholson Guide - that's 2675 metres to you metric dudes. 

Trying not to be alarmed when we heard the gates close - yes, gates - at the entrance to the tunnel behind us we entered a ghostly fog and kept our cool as boaters in front made wailing sounds and the boat behind crashed into the tunnel walls. At  last the whirring fans started up to force air into the tunnel for us to breath and I could see again to concentrate hard on the light of the boat in front. It took a real effort to maintain the right speed and not make contact with the tunnel sides so I was relieved when we emerged after some 30 minutes below ground. 

And having completed this hated task guess what Ros announced - "you've done SO well and I'm SO bad at tunnels, can you do the rest please darling...?"

Almost as soon as we emerged from the tunnel we turned left over an aqueduct crossing the Trent and Mersey Canal  into the Macclesfield Canal, a surprisingly pretty waterway running along the side of a tall ridge of hills west of the Pennines. Being a Thomas Telford designed canal it bears all the hallmarks of his engineering. It's a "cut and fill" canal following as straight a line as possible and featuring many great cuttings and embankments. Thus you have that at times surreal sensation of floating gently above the ground and enjoy wonderful views over the passing countryside. Forming part of the canal lovers Cheshire Ring we expected to begin to meet many more boats but yet again we had much of the waterway to ourselves. We are getting very spoilt and will be very grumpy when we have to start sharing our canals. 

Household chores intervened at the top of the Bosley Flight of locks (12 locks rising 118 feet for the anoraks following this) as the Canal and River Trust had provided a rather splendid facility complete with a working washing machine and dryer. So we lingered a few hours and refreshed our bed linen and clothes. 

Trust workers appeared and being chatty types we learnt that despite the wet spring we had been having this particular canal was suffering a shortage of water so it was rather good news that so few boats were on the move.  

And then on into Macclesfield where we saw the original vast Hovis flour mill beautifully restored into upmarket apartments for, dear readers, this is the town that gave birth to that renowned British brand in 1820. And for your further education, the word Hovis is derived from the Latin "hominisunvis" meaning "power to the man".  We were pleasantly surprised at how nice the town was with its cobbled streets and picturesque medieval Market Place. We lingered here for a much needed coffee but found the 40 minute session of bell ringing from the adjacent local church a trifle OTT. 

The following day we travelled to just before Higher Poynton where we unloaded the bikes for our next National Trust visit. The weather was perfect with puffs of white cloud scudding across a blue sky as we peddled through the magnificent  park surrounding this Italiante palace called Lyme House. It was a fairly hilly ride so Ros was in her element leaving me puffing behind but I rallied and got to the top of the ravine to enjoy a magnificent view over moorland to Manchester in the distance. I was told I had arrived "grump free". Now there's a compliment. 

The house was chosen to represent Pemberley in the BBC adaptation of Pride and Prejudice and hence provided a pilgrimage for all those Colin Firth fans (and we saw plenty I can assure you)  who no doubt were hoping to see Darcy emerge soaking wet from the lake beside the house.  Sorry to disappoint but this wasn't the lake they used and nor did they use the house interiors or courtyard - just the external shots which are truly memorable thanks to its wonderful setting in the rolling Cheshire countryside and its beautiful gardens. Full of countless works of art and an impressive collection of English clocks, my favourite was the four Chippendale chairs covered with material from the cloak worn by King Charles at his execution. 

Ghoulish or what?